The Strongest Fortified Town in England

‘Portsmouth, the strongest fortified town in England, … Ramparts, bastions, moats, drawbridges, intersect and encircle the whole in a manner peculiarly perplexing to the professional eye. May they prove as difficult of comprehension to an enemy, if England’s first line of defence should ever fail her! Let us now return to the town, but not wander through its streets for any length of time. With the exception of the High Street they are mostly narrow, miry, and squalid; crowded with small beer-shops and public houses; and always thronged by soldiers, seamen and marines. The streets and open places, the buildings and visible objects generally, are not such as to induce one to linger amongst them.’ Taken from Black’s Guide to Hampshire 1885

Public houses and street names

Public houses have always played an important part in the history of Portsmouth. This is even reflected in local street names: White Horse Lane (earliest reference 1676), running between the High Street and St Thomas’s Street, was named after the White Horse Golden Lion Lane (earliest reference 1716) was named after the Golden Lion White Hart Row, now road, (earliest reference 1811), named after the White Hart Fighting Cocks Lane (now Pembroke Road) was called after the Fighting Cocks which stood on the corner of this road and the High Street. In 1952, eighteen Fulham ware mugs were excavated from this site.

A Fire on the Boyne

On 1 May 1795, HMS Boyne, a fine 98 gun ship was destroyed by fire in Portsmouth Harbour. Moody gives the following startling description: ‘Most of the crew were saved by boats, but the heat at length became so excessive that no further assistance could be given, and on the return of the tide she drifted out of the harbour, the fires issuing through every porthole. Her lower guns were shotted, and as these went off much damage was done, and some lives lost. After burning about seven hours, her powder magazine blew up, with an explosion which was sensibly felt over all Portsmouth. Shot, and pieces of timber, were thrown to a great distance; several boats were blown to atoms and twenty of their hands perished.’ Taken from Black’s Guide to Hampshire 1885

Grand Parade

This fashionable area of Portsmouth was the hub of activity and centre for military parades. It has variously been described as: ‘A most charming resort for the gay, the elegant and the distinguished of both sexes. The public promenades, on the Platform, Parade, Ramparts and the Queen’s Battery, where the company are regaled every fine evening with the most choice airs, performed by the military bands, are also a charming source of rational and healthful entertainment to minds susceptible to such exquisite pleasures.’ Mottley 1776 ‘this guard (the main) is very well situated as it commands the gate, the High Street and is near the magazine (Square Tower), the platform and the governor’ Leake 1729 ‘the ramparts next to the sea, with that beautiful prospect of the Isle of Wight, the ocean and the shipping’ Wilkinson ‘everything looked so beautiful under the influence of such a sky, the effects of the shadows pursuing each other, on the ships at Spithead and the island beyond’ Jane Austen in Mansfield Park

A Dockyard the size of a Town

‘The Dockyard resembles a town in the number of its dwelling houses, offices, storehouse, lofts and other edifices erected fro the various purposes of the yard. It contains amazing quantities of everything necessary for the royal navy. There are never less that 2,000 men employed in it, and in times of war upwards of 2,000..’ Guide to Portsmouth 1775

Portsmouth Dockyardmen

Employment in the Dockyard in Portsmouth for skilled craftsmen in the mid 1800s was unusually secure for the period. The ‘established men’ were kept on at all times while ‘hired men’ were taken on only at busy periods and who could then be dismissed when no longer needed. There were a number of additional benefits to being an established man. A secure pension was paid after 20 years, paid holidays and sick leave provided, and workers also benefitted from free medical attention. These men and their families had little reason to fear the workhouse. The number of Dockyardmen fluctuated between 1500-5000 at this period. Considering the average mill or mine at this time employed 200-300 workers, Portsmouth Dockyard was one of the largest industrial undertakings in the country.

Judge Jeffreys and Portsmouth

Portsmouth has a surprising connection with the notorious George Jeffreys. He was made Burgess of Portsmouth on 10 September 1684. From 1685 to 1688 he was Recorder of Portsmouth but it appears that the office was performed during this period by a deputy, William Westbrook, who subsequently succeeded him as Recorder in 1689. Persons who were condemned to death and executed in the Bloody Assize, presided over by Jeffreys, which followed Monmouth’s rebellion in 1685 included John Hicks. Hicks had been minister of the non-conformist congregation at Portsmouth from about 1675 to 1681. This congregation was responsible for the later building the High Street Chapel. Additionally Alice Lady Lisle of Moyles Court near Ringwood was condemned by Jeffreys for giving shelter to Hicks and another man after the Rebellion. Jeffreys died in the Tower of London on 18 April 1689. Following the flight of James II overseas in December 1688, Jeffreys had himself tried to escape but was recognised and imprisoned.

Warblington Street

This name was adopted after the stone and brick from the ruined Warblington Castle, a few miles from Portsmouth, was used in the building of the newer houses. The name was in use from 1672 although this road was previously known as Hoggyn Markett or Hogmarkett Streete reflecting the livestock market that was held here. Both names were used interchangeably until the mid 1770s. In 1721, the local court heard the following complaint: ‘That the pavements before almost all the houses in Hogmarket als Warblinton Street are very ruinous out of Repair and that the laying of Dung, Filth and Burchers Offal there is a comon nuisance.’ Warblington Castle had been slighted in the Civil War by Parliamentarian forces.

Henry I

In 1133 the last embarkation of Henry I from Portsmouth harbour was marked by an earthquake following a total eclipse of the sun wrecking a number of vessels of the Royal fleet. In gratitude for his deliverance the King founded a church within the walls of Portchester Castle.

Calling the Powers that Be to account

Before the modern structure of the council, much of the day to day running of Portsmouth was conducted by Constables who were paid officials. Complaints about their conduct could be made in the local courts and if the complaints were found valid, monetary punishment could be made. In 1554 the Portsmouth Constables were presented at Court for failure to ensure monthly that all people between the ages of 7 and 60 had bows and arrows. At this time there were 3 constables and they were each fined 12 pence. In 1618 some citizens were discontented with the way the town was run. The constables of Portsmouth were presented to the sessions court: ‘for neglectynge ther office in suffering and not punishing vakabondes, rogges and numskulls to stay in the towne contrary to the Statute’. A similar complaint was made in 1620 and 1627: ‘We present the Constables of the Burrough that they amend the Stocks, Cage, and Whipping Posts and Pillory at or before the first day of December next on paine to loose Vis. VIIId.’

An 1883 bye-law

There is much in the local news recently about public disorder in Portsmouth. A bye-law passed in 1883 states that; ‘no person within the Borough of Portsmouth shall by shouting, singing, bawling, ringing a bell, or by playing on any instrument, make a disturbance in or near any thoroughfare or by any means, whatsoever, cause persons to collect so as to obstruct the free and uninterrupted passage.’ It appears that this was not enforced even at the time moving one commentator in 1910 to state: ‘If measures are not taken to prevent annoyance to pedestrians and residents, Portsmouth will soon get the reputation for being a badly governed town.'

The Keppel’s Head

This hostelry has stood as a landmark on the Hard in Portsmouth and has been familiar to generations. The original Keppel’s Head dates to the latter part of the 18th century. It was built, probably in 1779, on the site of a row of cottages which had been ruined by fire. This new building was also completely destroyed however by a fire in 1803 despite the best efforts of the naval, military and civil authorities who all pitched in to rescue it. No one was injured but a public subscription was raised with £400 presented to the well liked proprietor, Mr Wickenden, who had not been insured. When rebuilt it became a favourite haunt of Sub–Lieutenants from the Naval Educational Establishment in the Dockyard who affectionately called it the ‘Nut’. It was said they quizzed a waiter, William, for the answers to forthcoming exams for he infallibly gave them the correct answers. The hotel was named after Admiral Augustus Keppel who in 1779 was court-martialled for alleged cowardice in the presence of the enemy. The Admiral was acquitted with the charges being found ‘malicious and unproved’. The news was perceived in Portsmouth as a triumph, both of innocence over vice and a popular Admiral over an unpopular Ministry. Riots ensued with the Admiralty Gate being torn down, official residences attacked and bonfires blazing in Keppel’s honour. The rioters drank his health and publicans painted his head on their signs. The Keppel’s Head was again damaged by fire in 1879 and was completely burned out during the Blitz of March 1941. Interestingly, there is a well in the basement.

Notes on Death of King Edward VII

King Died – 6th May 1910 King George V proclaimed King – 9th May 1910 Not known until morning of the 9th that Proclamation would take place that day. ‘Proclamation on Guildhall steps: Head of Naval and Military Establishments present. 100 Men of Gloucester Regiment with Band and Colour 100 Naval Men The Mayor preceded by the Mace Bearer with Mace draped in crepe. On the strike of 9 the Town clerk read the Proclamation. During the reading all present stood at the salute, Naval and Military Guards presenting Arms. As final works ‘God Save the king’ were repeated, band played God Save the King’. The Mayor called for three cheers for King George V. Then one for Queen Mary. This concluded the proceedings.’ Extracted from Portsmouth City Records Office, I/3

Concern for a Tower

Portsmouth City Council is concerned that the fortifications at the mouth of the harbour are being eroded by the sea. This is not new. In the 16th century, Portsmouth had the following regulation: ‘…which hathe continued the space of ij hundred yeares and ore’, that all the passage botes that sayle usithe between the yle of wighte and portsmouthe should brynge everye of them once in the yeare one bote lode of rocke stones and leye them within the pyles of the rounde Tower near to the haven’s mouthe by the maiors appointment and order…’ The records do not show how successful this regulation was, but the Round Tower has survived through the generations to still be with us today.

Early Railways

The railway arrived in Gosport on the opposite side of Portsmouth Harbour in 1842 but did not reach Portsmouth, by far the bigger settlement, until 1847. Part of the reason for the delay was prevaricating by the Board of Ordnance who resisted the breaching of Hilsea lines, fortifications built to protect the northern area of Portsea Island.

South Parade Pier

South Parade Pier in Southsea was opened in July 1879 by Princess Edward of Saxe-Weimar. Its length of 460 foot was longer than its rival, Clarence Pier, and it could accommodate 1000 people in an impressive octagonal pavilion at its head. It has had a chequered history including being partially demolished during WWII, and catching fire several times. Indeed, in 1974, scenes of this pier accidentally burning are featured in the film by Ken Russell, Tommy. A host of famous performers have performed here including Peter Sellers, David Bowie and Genesis. To find out more, visit the website: http://www.southparadepier.co.uk/history.php Records are also located at the Portsmouth City Records Office: http://www.portsmouthrecordsoffice.co.uk/

Thomas Telford

This famous engineer, not renowned for spending time on the south coast, built two buildings in Portsmouth Dockyard while he was employed as Admiralty Clerk of Works. These buildings, Short Row (officer housing for those indispensable at all times to the running of the Yard) and Admiralty House, were erected in and 1787 respectively 1789 respectively.

How To Flatter A Little Man

In 1947 the Sunday Graphic gave the following advice to its female Portsmouth readership. When faced with a husband who is smaller than his wife, she should: ‘aim to keep points of interest low; it is a good idea to make the hands all important. If they are beautifully kept and flattered with the best jewellery you can afford they can do a lot to help. No piled up hair, no steeple hats, outstanding ear-rings or flowing veils with brilliant blobs.’ He should: ‘be dressed importantly. A bold tie, a substantial jacket and an overcoat with well-built shoulders. Stout shoes wherever possible… They should always be in good repair, especially the heels… Have him wear a hat if he will.’ The same paper lamented the rise in divorce (‘You don’t need me to tell you that the collapse of home life must mean in the end the collapse of the nation.’), argued against the use of gin traps, discussed the level of child cruelty, offered a short story by Enid Blyton, advertised Ginger Rogers and David Niven in Magnificent Doll and explained how Portsmouth was governed. Portsmouth City Records Office I/9

Oyster Street

This ancient street in Portsmouth was named after the catch landed by the fishing boats that have always used the sheltered waters of the Camber. The name first appears in 1549 and is regularly being used from 1666. In 1801, it was noted that in Portsmouth ‘Bread and oysters are sold… particularly by the gallon’ and a tourist mentions that he ‘lunches from an oyster stall’. Excavations in the area have also uncovered the remnants of a substantial local taste for oysters.

A Description of the Hard

‘Thirty years ago (it) was a place which seemed to belong to the previous century. There were no great houses and handsome shops, but in their place, a picturesque row of irregular cottages, no two of which were exactly alike… They were two storied houses; the upper story was very low, the ground floor was below the level of the street…A wooden bench was placed along the iron railing near the beach, on which sat every day, and all day long, old sailors, in a row.’ Extracted from By Celia’s Arbor by Walter Besant, 1878. To find out more about Besant and his connections with Portsmouth, consult Portsmouth Paper no 74, Portsmouth Novelists by David Francis.